Basic Components:
Fuel Tank This is probably the largest variable in the cost of your conversion. Just about any thing can be used for holding the Veg Oil, plastic fuel jug, fuel tank out of old vehicle (metal or plastic), or custom made. Keep in mind where you will mount it, how you will fill it, are you going to need to heat the oil inside it, and of course your budget. I first used a Hydraulic oil tank I modified, readily available, was easy to modify for heating of oil, and came in various sizes.

 Fuel Filter I have become a fan of the Canister Type fuel filters, they are readily available and take quite a bit of miles before they need replacing. The filter and Remote Filter Head can be found at most auto parts stores, for about $40.00. I used a Racor filter with the reusable screen filter as recommended on another site last year, it worked alright but I did need to clean it more often then I liked.

Solenoid Valve & Switch  These can be found at most automotive stores I've found. I use the 3-port valve as sold by J. C. Whitney. The Switch is most any 12volt single pole contact switch from an auto store (should put an inline fuse of 10amps for safety).

3 way Valve These are not really necessary if you want to cut corners, but are nice if you run out of fuel. They can be found at some auto stores or used auto yards. Hint: tell the person your looking for the old manual valve used to switch between fuel tanks.

Tubing, Clamps, & fittings Again, a big variable in your budget. All tubing that comes in contact with Veg Oil has to be something other than RUBBER based! I choose polyvinyl for short runs as no special fittings are required (only radiator type clamps) and it easily bends. For the long runs, from the VO tank in the trunk to the engine compartment up front, I used soft copper tubing. The tubing is, to me, easy to work with, longer lasting than polyvinyl, and fittings are readily available.

 Basics of Installation The easiest way to describe an installation is that your adding another fuel tank, that will be heated, filter, Solenoid Valve, & rerouting of the fuel lines.

Obviously if you have a pick-up with dual-tanks your ahead of the game! The easiest part is installing the switch for the solenoid valve, it is also the only Electrical you will need to do unless you opt for a fuel gauge in the grease tank, (again, your time ahead if you have dual tanks as you can use the existing tank selector switch).

Place the switch where you can easily use/see it, and if you use one that is illuminated like mine it will help remind you of turning on/off. Run a lead to the engine bay where you will hook up to the solenoid valve.

Next I like to re-route the fuel lines. Fuel should flow from the tank, to the filter, the solenoid valve, the lift pump (if so equipped as in Mercedes-Benz), and then the Injector Pump. The "overflow" fuel, fuel that ordinarily flows back to the tank should be routed back to the inlet side of the Injector pump using a "T". REMEMBER! Use poly-vinyl tubing or similar for all fuel lines that will be carrying WVO. If your vehicle has dual tanks, the tahk that will be used for WVO will need to have that line replaced with poly-vinyl where ever rubber is used. Now if you need to use your vehicle and you've run out of time you can still drive the vehicle,  just don't switch to veg oil.

A word on hooking up the solenoid valve, diesel fuel should go to the inlet-port that allows fuel through when de-energized.

Now you need to get your Tank ready, it needs to be heated. I am only talking about my way of doing this for a few good reasons:

   1. I use the engine coolant, as this provides for a more constant  temperature at the desired 200degrees, (most thermostats are at 180-195).

   2. Tubing is a bit less expensive than the Electrical Heat Blanket, wiring, breakers, & switches to do as an alternate method.

   3. Soft Copper tubing & fittings are readily available, stronger/longer lasting than radiator type hoses, and will help transfer heat beyond where it is heated by the contact of the engine coolant.

   4. Will give you a more accurate "read" as to when the WVO is up to temp and ready to be switched, (when the engine is up to temp the oil is ready).

What ever you use for a WVO tank it should have an adequate amount of tubing inside for heating the oil inside. I use 10 feet for my 23gal. tank and it seems to work fine. Keep the fuel pick-up close to the coil for better results. Will get a photo real soon for you, as I'm currently Vegging my latest, a '92 Jetta with the ECO Diesel.

Photos of how I do the " Tube within a tube", this is typical at both ends.

Below is the basic way of connecting/terminating the "T" of the Tube-in-a-Tube, I have ends that use hose clamps to connect the tubing. These will be available in pairs only & are reuseable, need only a screw driver & crescent wrench to attach. Contact me if your interested, $30.00usd + shipping.

Winter Precautions:

1. Best thing to ensure your system will work well is to keep your use of Polyvinyl use to a minimum! The more you can use metal lines and keep the continuity to lines that are heated the faster your oil will heat up and be ready for use. If you do have to make breaks in the WVO line use flared connections for best results.

2. Insulate your Grease Tank, I prefer to use Iso. Board, 1/2 or 3/4" thickness with foil facing works great when corners are taped over with foil tape. Leave a hole near the bottom of the tank if your going to do the next step.

3. If you really want to get going fast on burning WVO on a cold Morning, pick up a magnetic 120volt, tank heater, available at most automotive stores, about $20. This can be attached to your Veg Tank, if you took my advice and built it out of Steel, near the bottom to heat the veg oil when plugged in. People have talked to me about using heat tape also, this is fine but does not give as nice of "bond" to the tank in my mind. Either heat method can be found with thermostat controls. NOTE: if you buy the magnetic heater I'll tell you about another use for it on my Filtering Page!

4. Heat your Veg Oil Filter, spend money for a heated fuel filter $$$, or do as I do. My WVO filter on my Mercedes (and probably all future installations), will be under the hood of the engine bay. So to heat the WVO filter faster, I cut the heater hose that goes from the return line of the WVO Tank back to the "T" in the car heater hose about 2 feet longer and wrap the excess around the filter and hold it in place with plastic wire ties. I have 2 full wraps on my filter, to make it warmer yet I am placing a plastic jug around the whole thing.

5. Check those hose clamps!!! They tend to loosen in cold weather, keep an appropriate screwdriver in your glove box and check them when you check your engine oil.